In The Studio with Oliver Spencer
The designer and founder gives Liberty a tour of his London headquarters, as the exclusive capsule collection makes its debut in store
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In The Studio with Oliver Spencer
As his exclusive capsule makes its debut in store, the designer and founder gives Liberty a tour of his London headquarters
Even before his eponymous label launched in 2002, menswear designer Oliver Spencer had established himself as a defining voice in contemporary British style. Having first made his mark with his contemporary take on formalwear, the self-taught designer then turned his attention to elevating smart-casual clothing, bringing his signature sense of effortless refinement to everyday dressing.
Tucked behind the brand's first-ever store on London’s Lamb’s Conduit Street, the studio, head office, and showroom form a bustling hub of activity, where a host of stylish employees pore over samples, swatches and mannequins. It’s not uncommon for Oliver to be seen in all corners of the space throughout the day, sketching one moment, talking to customers in the store the next, and popping out for a mid-morning coffee at Honey & Co. on the corner.
Having dressed innumerable British icons, from Jude Law to Idris Elba, it’s clear that Oliver Spencer understands what men want to wear. With innovative fabrics, effortlessly polished silhouettes and a muted yet playful colour palette, each piece is a perfect blend of ease and refinement. As an exclusive capsule of relaxed tailoring and suiting with Liberty launches in store and online, the man behind the brand sat down with Liberty to share more about the collection.
Tell us a little bit about the story of Oliver Spencer – how did the brand come to be?
I founded the brand almost 25 years ago, which makes me feel really old! I’d started with an occasionwear label called Favourbrook, and customers began asking for things like corduroy suits and moleskin overcoats. After about a year, it became clear these were two totally separate ideas, and in 2002 we began developing the Oliver Spencer brand, focusing on smart casual clothing. It’s a joy to serve customers and to understand what people want to wear.
When did your interest in fashion and design begin?
Probably from about the age of 12. I started shopping for second-hand clothing from an early age, so I think the growing appreciation for second-hand and vintage clothing is great. A lot of the time, I’ve had my mind on designing that perfect piece of clothing that you search for endlessly in a second-hand store but can never find: kind of replicating that vintage, retro feel.
What is the core ethos or guiding philosophy behind the brand?
We mix a lot of tailoring with utility wear, and that combination forms our narrative. At heart, we’re a tailoring brand, but it’s evolving and changing. We’re constantly trying to reinvent tailoring by moving between the casual and the formal. It’s very malleable. We’re always listening to the customer, which I think is really important.
How has the brand evolved over the years?
When I first started, I was purely designing what I liked. It was quite selfish - just hoping people would love it. Over time, I’ve come to understand the customer much better, which I think a lot of brands probably miss.
Where do you get your inspiration?
Life in London is my biggest influence - it’s a fantastic melting pot of people from all over the world living together, mostly in harmony. It feels like a good place to be. There are lots of different villages and vibes within the city, and I take a huge influence from all of them.
We’re sitting in the first ever Oliver Spencer store, but also your HQ - can you tell us a bit about the space?
We’re on Lamb’s Conduit Street, but this door backs into number 20 Rugby Street, so we’ve got two entrances which is cool. Lamb’s Conduit Street has a strong sense of community. There are businesses across the road with their own design teams, architects with large studios - we’re all very community-based, and it’s fantastic. That’s a big part of London for me.
Could you tell us a bit about your upcoming capsule collection launching at Liberty?
We’ve been selling at Liberty for a long time, and outside of our own stores, I consider it our independent home. It’s a great store with so much character, and getting to do a capsule collection with Liberty is an honour. This season’s designs feel very architectural - clean lines, simple, strong colours and really innovative fabrication. We’ve used tropical wool throughout the collection which is a great alternative to linen - it doesn’t crease, it’s breathable and looks really great, so that’s been exciting for us.
What would you say are your signature pieces?
Jackets are often where people start. I love designing suede jackets in particular - there’s a romance to them. Shirts are always fun too - once you get the cut of a shirt right, it’s a wonderful thing to wear. Tailoring is key, and recently designing trousers has been great because people have moved away from skinny fits. There’s nothing worse than a pair of overly skinny trousers.
What makes someone an ‘Oliver Spencer man’, and what do you think men are looking for in their wardrobes now that they weren’t ten years ago?
He has an opinion on what he likes to wear. He’s looking for investment pieces - quality, ease, and versatility. It’s about clothes you can put on every day without overthinking it. The wardrobe is quite capsule-based, so everything mixes and matches, but doesn’t follow a full look from a magazine - he puts his own spin on it.
That mindset has only become more pronounced. Men are thinking carefully about where and how they buy. They want longevity and quality, and they want style, but in a subtle way. We never put labels on the outside of garments, and I think that’s important - wearing visible labels is right up there with skinny trousers for me.
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