Inside Simone Rocha’s world of contrast, contradiction and dark femininity
Expect the unexpected as the designer’s captivating collections arrive into Liberty
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Inside Simone Rocha’s world of contrast, contradiction and dark femininity
Expect the unexpected as the designer’s captivating collections arrive into Liberty
Simone Rocha’s daring yet delicate approach to design has seen her steadily become the darling of the London fashion scene. Her intricate creations, bedecked in bows, ruffles and lace, retain a distinctly contemporary allure – powerful statements of modern femininity and self-expression for those who wear them.
Her designs often exude a subtle sensuality, but rather than romantic, she describes herself as pragmatic – a feeling translated into her work, which contort traditions and set tropes askew.
As her women’s, men’s and accessories collections arrive into Liberty for the very first time, she talks us through her aesthetic approach and sensibility.
Photography by Eimear Lynch
Photography by Eimear Lynch
How did you first become interested in design?
I think I’ve always viewed things in a specific way, looking at everything around me and editing out what I’m attracted to in my head and then juxtaposing it against other images or ideas I have floating around. I think I've been like this since I was a teenager.
You play with a lot of traditionally “feminine” motifs in your designs – why is that?
I like looking at the traditional and twisting it for today. I’m into harnessing femininity and pushing and pulling the ideas around it and translating it into clothes.
Photography by Jacob Lillis
Photography by Jacob Lillis
Many of your designs blend the feminine with darker or “masculine” themes – can you tell us about this contrast?
I’ve always been attracted to contradictions and contrasts. The tension of the in between, that makes me enjoy the clash of masculine and feminine, hard and soft, natural and manmade. I like to create collections where everything is not quite what it seems. The darker underbelly in femininity.
How does your approach come through in your menswear designs?
I like to contrast masculinity with sensitivity. Looking at art types and challenging them, playing with fabrication and detail.
Photography by Eimear Lynch
Photography by Eimear Lynch
Your work has been described as “romantic” – is that something that resonates?
I'm actually more pragmatic than romantic, but I think that’s why the collections don’t feel too sweet.
How do you hope your creations make people?
Strong, feminine, and in control.
Can you tell us about the craft that goes into your work?
A lot of my fabrics are first developed by hand in my studio, along with embroidery and embellishment. I work very much in the hand, with fittings, draping, and playing.
Photography by Jacob Lillis
Photography by Jacob Lillis
You’re known for crafting collections that tell a story, and are grounded in research – why do you enjoy this?
I do see each show and collection like a chapter in my book, I enjoy conveying an emotion into garments and then sharing it. Right now, I’m interested in gardening (deadheading my roses), dance (I recently saw (LA)HORDE perform) and trying to get a short film off the ground.
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