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Stylist and editor, Leith Clark with jewellery designer, Yvonne Léon

In Paris with Yvonne Léon

Explore a world of vintage Parisian treasures with Leith Clark and Yvonne Léon
By: Team Liberty

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In Paris with Yvonne Léon

In Paris with Yvonne Léon

Explore a world of vintage Parisian treasures with Leith Clark and Yvonne Léon

By: Team Liberty

Delve into Liberty’s 150-year legacy as stylist, editor and creative director, Leith Clark curates a selection of 150 pieces from Liberty’s past and present, each with their own unique story to tell. As part of this milestone collaboration, Leith visited a selection of Liberty’s creative founders – old and new – at their studios across the globe, to discover the craft that makes each unique.

With a family in the trade, Yvonne Léon was perhaps destined to be a jeweller. Yet through her eponymous label, she’s certainly crafting her own legacy. Hers are treasures inspired by the flea markets of France, reinventing vintage design sensibilities for the modern jewellery collector. Irreverent but classic, familiar yet unexpected, her aesthetic is one of contradiction, beloved the world over, but particularly by Leith Clark, who selected her iconic Malachite Heart Ring, among a handful of other precious pieces, as part of her 150 for 150 Anniversary edit. Here, the pair sit down in Léon’s Parisian studio to discuss her creative process…

Jewellery displayed inside Yvonne Léon's Parisian studio
The view of Paris from the window

How long have you been creating jewellery?

I began 12 years ago. I started alone but I come from a family of jewellers, and my parents owned a vintage shop here in Paris, which made it much easier to begin in this world. From the age of 6 or 7, I would go with my family to the shop every week and see all the amazing jewellery. Now, I’m building something of my own, year by year.

Are your parents still involved now?

My father is still involved and he gives me a lot of advice. He knows everything about technique, so it’s great to have his help.

Did you always want to be in jewellery?

No, I went to fashion school to study design, and thought I would make clothing. But in the end I took the opportunity to help my family instead, and it just felt natural to create jewellery.

Yvonne Léon's personal jewellery curation
Yvonne Léon's personal jewellery curation

What were your first designs or pieces?

It was a remodel of a piece my father created for my mother in the 80s. It hung just below the ear, with a line of diamonds. I took his model and over time, I’ve added other elements like a bee, a butterfly and some pearls. I began my company with those designs.

What is your starting point for creation?

I begin to make a moodboard with all my desires and inspiration. I take different details from all sorts of places, maybe a lamp, for example, or a chair, or vintage pieces. I love to create stories with my collections, so that’s always my starting point.

And it seems like you like to play with size?

I love to work with size, creating mini versions and maxi versions of different models for the different collections.

Yvonne Léon 9ct Gold Lapis Lazuli Scarab Ring
Yvonne Léon Malachite Signet Ring

How do you introduce your designs to the world?

Naturally, I wear them. I want to see them in the real world, and see if there is anything that needs rearranging. And then I show them to my staff for feedback which is so important. After that, we present the collection at Fashion Week.

How big are your collections?

At the beginning, my collections would include 10 or 15 models, but now I make so many. And I curate five collections a year, which is a lot but I always want to create. I always have ideas.

How long has your jewellery been in Liberty?

We launched in Liberty three or four years ago. We love the buying team there, it’s a pleasure to collaborate with them. The store is gorgeous; it’s always a pleasure to be there. And now, we have a ‘shop-in-shop’ which gives us a chance to show off more of our collection with more space.

Jewellery at Yvonne Leon's Paris studio
A selection of Yvonne Léon's designs in her Paris studio

What are your bestsellers?

The signet, first of all. And then The Beach collection and all the studs of the most recent collection. And then the solitaire collection. It uses two different types of chain and I love working with this duality. It’s called the Solitaire because it's very classic to have a diamond on a chain but for us, this brings something very modern and fresh. We started with diamonds, but now make it using rubies and emeralds and other precious stones.

Do you make any pieces inspired by vintage jewellery you saw when you were little?

Definitely. For example, the Berlingot ring. I remember my mother had a ring with this texture of gold. The light would catch it in the most beautiful way.

Would you ever make clothes again?

Yes, I would love to. But always alongside jewellery, as a combination. I have big ideas, but let’s see...

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