AHA vs BHA: The Battle of the Skincare Acids
Learn how to differentiate your salicylic from your glycolic once and for all with Liberty’s expert guide to exfoliating acids
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AHA vs BHA: the Battle of the Skincare Acids
Learn how to differentiate your salicylic from your glycolic once and for all with Liberty’s expert guide to exfoliating acids
By: Shannon Peter
Even if you’re yet to truly learn the precise difference between AHAs vs BHAs, it’s likely that you, too, have been swept up in the frenzy surrounding skincare acids. How could you not? Social media feeds the internet wide are full of skincare aficionados waving bottles of exfoliating toners and acid-rich serums in front of their camera, while talking about their ability to slough away dead skin cells and leave you glowing. But as beneficial as these viral skincare wonder products may be, are you using the right skincare acid for your skin type? And are you using it in the right way? Let Victoria Evans, Dermalogica’s Education Manager be your guide…
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What Are AHAs?
The first thing to note is that skincare acids are classified into two main groups: AHAs and BHAs (and technically, PHAs, but we’ll cover those another time). AHAs, or alpha-hydroxy acids, “are water loving molecules that exfoliate skin by detaching the bonds that hold skin cells together,” Evans explains. “This results in a burst of cell renewal, leading to smoother, brighter skin.”
One of the most commonly used AHA found in many high-end skincare formulations is glycolic acid. “It’s a brightening AHA that acts a little more aggressively due to its smaller molecular size, thus penetrates the skin quickly.” On the other hand, lactic acid is a moisturising and brightening AHA, suitable for most skin types.
Read More: Get your routine in line with the correct order of skincare products
Shop AHAs
Sunday Riley
Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment 50ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare
Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel 5 Pack
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
La Mer
The Micro Peel 30ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Medik8
Skin Glycolic At-Home Peel 30ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
MALIN+GOETZ
Resurfacing Glycolic Pads 80ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
REN Clean Skincare
Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic 250ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Omorovicza
Acid Fix 30ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
What Are BHAs?
“BHAs, or beta-hydroxy acids, have a different molecular structure to AHAs,” Evans continues, with the most commonly used one being salicylic acid. “It’s an oil loving molecule meaning it’s a great choice for oily, breakout prone skin. Salicylic acid is drawn into the pores and deconstructs oily build up, helping to clear pores and prevent future congestion and breakouts. It also has anti-inflammatory properties so helps with redness and irritation associated with acne.”
Read More: Rise and shine with the ultimate morning skincare routine
Shop BHAs
Paula's Choice
Resist Anti-Aging 2% BHA Exfoliant 88ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Trish McEvoy
Even Skin Beta Hydroxy Pads
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
MALIN+GOETZ
Salicylic Gel 15ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Sunday Riley
U.F.O. Ultra-Clarifying Acne Treatment Face Oil 15ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Paula's Choice
Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Lotion Exfoliant 100ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Skincycles
Renewal Toning Pads Pack of 50
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
What's the Difference Between AHAs and BHAs?
While AHAs and BHAs do have some similarities, their approach to exfoliation is what sets them apart. “AHAs offer skin brightening and smoothing whilst BHAs offer clearing within the pores, and they’re often combined in formulas to gain maximum benefits,” Evans adds.
Read More: Seek professional skin advice in a bottle via these expert-led skincare brands
Can You Use Both AHAs and BHAs?
While anyone using skincare acids should approach with a certain level of caution, the good news is that you can use AHAs and BHAs simultaneously. The key to maintaining skin bliss and never over-exfoliating, is to consider the potency of the formula at hand, and how often you use it.
Stronger acid products, or those considered a ‘peel’, should only really be used a maximum of once a week. However, some acids can be used daily if the dose is small.
It's also worth noting that the overall pH of an acid formula is a big factor in potency and results. “For example, a 10% acid formula at the skin's pH of 5 is less potent in action than a 10% formula at a pH of 3,” Evans adds. This is where shopping expert-led skincare brands will be your saving grace.
Read More: Consider yourself a Skinimalist? Follow this basic skincare routine
Do AHAs or BHAs Have Any Side Effects?
The reason any skincare expert would advise you to tread carefully with acids is that overuse can cause damage to the all-important skin barrier, leaving skin sore, sensitive and inflamed, or even trigger a bout of perioral dermatitis. Evans advises you to “look for signs of intolerance and over exfoliation such as tightness, irritation and flakiness.”
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How Do You Use AHAs and BHAs in Your Routine?
So what’s the right way to introduce a skincare acid into your day or night time skincare regime? “First get your skin into a healthy state by focusing on double cleansing and good levels of hydration with a serum and moisturiser,” Evans advises. “If your skin is dehydrated and sensitised, it will likely not respond well to the introduction of acids.” A final note: just like retinol, skincare acids will make the skin all the more sensitive to the sun, so rigorous SPF application is even more important than usual.
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COMPLETE THE ROUTINE
La Mer
The Moisturising Soft Cream 60ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Ultra Violette
Fave Fluid SPF 50 Ultralight Skinscreen 75ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare
Hyaluronic Marine Oil-Free Moisture Cushion 50ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Dermalogica
Circular Hydration Serum 30ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Augustinus Bader
The Rich Cream 50ml
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Sunday Riley
Ice Ceramide Moisturising Cream 50g
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
Free UK Standard delivery within 5 working days on all orders over £100
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