In the Studio with Missoma
Founder Marisa Hordern invites Liberty into the world of Missoma, exploring the stories, inspirations and craftsmanship behind the brand
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In the Studio with Missoma
Founder Marisa Hordern invites Liberty into the world of Missoma, exploring the stories, inspirations and craftsmanship behind the brand
Born around her parents’ kitchen table and now credited with pioneering the demi-fine jewellery space, Missoma has cultivated a devoted following for its sculptural forms, considered details and instinctive approach to layering. Founded by Marisa Hordern in 2007, the brand marries fashion-led design with meticulous craftsmanship, with every piece conceived in its London studio and brought to life by hand.
As we unveil Missoma’s new home in our Fashion Jewellery hall, now open on the First Floor, Liberty sat down with founder and creative director Marisa Hordern to explore the inspirations, craftsmanship and personal stories woven through the brand.
Missoma has grown from a kitchen-table idea into one of the world’s most recognisable jewellery brands. What was the original idea that sparked it all?
When I started Missoma 20 years ago, it literally was around the kitchen table with my mum. We were trying to find jewellery that we wanted to wear every day – something affordable, great quality and design-led. That type of jewellery just didn’t exist then, so we set out to make it for ourselves. Those values are still at the heart of Missoma today: jewellery you can buy for yourself, treat yourself to and wear on repeat.
How would you describe the Missoma aesthetic today?
We have quite a few signature styles, from ridged detailing to organic forms and shapes. What we love is taking something timeless and adding a Missoma twist. We always want our pieces to feel like something you can wear for years, but with an element of meaning, symbolism or a distinctive design detail that gives it that Missoma look.
Your designs are made to be layered, stacked and worn in unexpected combinations. What role does personal style play in the way you design?
We were one of the first to really be about delicate layering for every day. I’ve always loved playing around with what I layer and stack – sometimes it’s one simple, bold piece, other times it’s lots of delicate pieces, depending on my mood. Jewellery becomes part of your personality and character, and that’s what’s so fun about it: you can layer it up and make it your own.
Where do you look for inspiration?
I find inspiration everywhere. It comes from architecture, different cultures and history, vintage jewellery, interiors and even lighting. I’ve also always been inspired by my mum’s jewellery box. My mum is the most glamorous woman to me, and she and my grandmother both loved jewellery. I remember playing with my grandmother’s vintage pieces, and those memories still inspire me today.
Can you talk us through the journey of a piece, from the first spark of an idea to the finished jewel?
We start with mood boards and sketches, then develop the collection and its story before creating the technical specifications. We now 3D-print pieces so we can actually see their size and volume and try them on before sampling. From there, a piece can go through several rounds of sampling before testing and pre-production, and then it’s off to production. We’re really proud that everything is designed by our team and handmade by master craftspeople. Nothing feels as good as when the final tray of jewellery arrives and the whole team gathers around it – especially when it surpasses your expectations.
How does working from your London studio shape the way you design?
We’re based in Ladbroke Grove, just around the corner from Portobello Road, and I think we definitely have that London eclectic vibe. I grew up going to the markets and finding vintage pieces, and I’ve sourced things like the Roman coins that inspired collections there.
How do you balance creating pieces that feel distinctly Missoma but leave room for the wearer to make them their own?
Jewellery is one of the most personal purchases, whether it’s for yourself or as a gift. We always try to create a range that can suit anybody – whether you’re looking for an initial, a birthstone or something with meaning, like a Roman coin or a talisman. Many pieces can also be engraved, which adds that personal finishing touch. Our designs are made to work together, and that layering and building-up of pieces is how you make jewellery reflect your own character.
After almost two decades of Missoma, what are you most curious to explore next?
I can’t believe it’s nearly two decades, but I’m still just as excited about going to our factories and sourcing trips. Retail has also been a really exciting new journey for us – being able to meet customers in person, hear what they love and share the stories behind the pieces. We’re really excited to be launching a new space in Liberty. We’ve worked together for so long, and it feels like a natural extension of Missoma. Our customers love craftsmanship, meaning and storytelling, so it feels like a perfect match.