Feature
The Mood

AW19 Womenswear

We sketch the key stories, brands and highlight newness for the season ahead

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In the midst of uncertain times, the Autumn/Winter 2019 runways were fuelled by a sense of rebellion - along with a desire to escape the daily grind. Gothic romance was tinged with punk spirit, as decadent lace and dark florals were met by flashes of tartan in a moody palette of crimson and deep green. The shift in cultural climate also sparked a trend to return to nature with organic, earthy fabrications.

We now invite you to explore our take on AW19, as we introduce an edit of exceptionally crafted pieces to see you through the season.

The trouser suit transcends the boardroom to become the ultimate in one-step dressing for autumn. There are iterations to suit every taste, but they all have a common thread: not one is your basic business attire. Despite the suit’s connotations, there is no stuffiness here: you can deconstruct yours with trainers, sharpen them up with boots, or recontextualise them with brocade mules.

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Leather: real or faux, it’s not just for jackets and trousers this season. In the hands of designers including Rokh and Rejina Pyo, it becomes a malleable fabric; woven into button-through dresses and skirts. The result is powerful pieces that break with convention, adding a touch of rebellion to the most minimal of silhouettes.

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Whether classically feminine or delivered with an edge, this season’s pearls are impossible to ignore. Look to Shrimps’ faux pearl mini totes and hair accessories for a playful take on ladylike style, or see Alighieri for artfully composed gold-plated earrings, layered with beautifully organic baroque forms.

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Feminine pieces take a darker turn as velvet, satin and lace fabrications become a base for moody floral prints and renaissance-style detailing. Setting the tone for cocktail hour, The Vampire’s Wife offers up romantic bell-sleeved dresses with a sinister twist - whilst A.W.A.K.E toys with gothic, form fitting styles laced with anarchy.

Shop Dark Romance

It’s time to go off-grid: return to nature with autumn’s celebration of the artisanal and undiscovered. An undyed palette of mossy-greens, ecru, rust browns and terracottas is rendered into refined utilitarian silhouettes. Try layering Isabel Marant Étoil’s checked coats with Preen’s voluminous skirt, or throw a woollen blanket cape over Wood Wood’s sleek new staples.

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Embellished with glitter, crystals or faux pearls, hair accessories are the easiest way to thrill. Try Valet Studio’s kitsch clips for a playful twist, or seek Jenifer Behr’s pearl-laced sculptural designs for the upcoming onslaught of seasonal occasions.

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