Feature
On saving the world…

Sylvie Chantecaille

The pioneering beauty founder talks cosmetics with a conscience

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@LibertyLondon

All hail the pioneering founder of the skin care and beauty brand Chantecaille, a family-run business, now celebrating its 20th year, that advocates treading lightly in the world and champions using natural, carefully sourced ingredients. Her mission? Raising awareness of global problems via her skin-enhancing products.

How did you wind up in the beauty industry?I was supposed to be an art dealer, but I loved makeup too much. My parents were art collectors, and from the moment I was born I was exposed to beautiful pieces and appreciated fine art. My childhood and background in art influence everything, from my desire to create a natural, successful product, to the color of the boxes and design of each bottle or compact.

My beauty career began when I moved to New York City. That was when I created my first cosmetic company with my friend Diane von Furstenberg. The cult perfume Tatiana was part of that line. In 1979 I was asked by the Lauder family to create a new beauty company called Prescriptives. It was a completely new approach to cosmetics, and there I led some of the most innovative developments in the beauty industry, including custom blend shade-matching to help women identify the perfect foundation shade, an unprecedented concept at that time. We also launched Calyx, a best-selling fragrance which is still loved today.

I launched Chantecaille in 1997 as a niche fragrance house with four scents based on natural essential oils. Within a year and a half, I realised I could and should do more. It was clear that my personal passion for high quality skincare, natural products, Chinese medicine and aromatherapy were begging to be expanded into a line of beauty. I created a company that reflected my spiritual and holistic passion in each item created, and twenty years later, here we are!

"I wanted to create the first skincare company based on flowers - totally pure with a luxurious quality, scientifically-forward technology and botanical ingredients."

What was the starting point when launching the brand?Chantecaille started with my desire to create high-quality products that made women feel beautiful but were most importantly healthy for them. The product had to be impeccable and better than anything on the market, and there was no other skincare or makeup company based on flowers.

Using Chinese medicine principles, herbalism and aromatherapy as our inspiration, we mixed the purest plant-based formulas, and from the beginning products had a high percentage of naturals, which was unheard of in the industry. This combination created an effective product, with clean ingredients, luxurious quality, and scientifically-forward technology. It just seemed to me the only way to do it. A luxury product should, before anything else, be good for you.

Can you tell us about the 20th Anniversary palette?To celebrate our 20th Anniversary, we created a limited-edition palette featuring two conservation efforts I particularly adore, The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and The Lion Guardians. The 20 Year Anniversary Eye Palette features sunset shades named for beloved lions and elephants helped by these outstanding organizations: Selenkey, a burnt gold, Kamok, an almond highlighter, Gawa, a muted pink, and Nana, a soft taupe.

How does it feel to reach such a milestone?It feels spectacular-it's flown by so quickly. I see how it affects people around me, our whole community is celebrating- the team in our office, our buyers, the artists at our counters, some who have been with us since the beginning, our fans, and clients new and old. It makes me feel strong.

"More than ever, there is a need from the consumer for visibility, transparency, and honesty in cosmetics - exactly as it should be. Because we started our brand with complete visibility and naturals, our customers know and trust us."

How has the beauty landscape changed since you started out? The beauty landscape has changed for the better - there are so many natural makeup and skincare products. It is truly great that people care now about naturals, organics, and botanicals, but many who claim it are not really natural, or harbor certain ingredients that are still not the healthiest for your skin.

All Chantecaille skin care products are free from synthetic colours and fragrances, as well as other undesirable ingredients. Why is this important? Sulphates are harsh surfactants that can strip your skin of essential molecules, making your skin dry and more sensitive. Petrochemicals cause contact dermatitis and can be contaminated with cancer-causing impurities. They are produced in oil refineries contributing to air and water pollution. Phthalates are part of a group of chemicals known as endocrine disruptors, which can interfere with the body's endocrine or hormone system. They are often presented as impurities in synthetic fragrances and this is why we do not use synthetic fragrances in our skin care products. And palm oil is in everything, from hair shampoo to peanut butter, yet it is the main cause of the destruction of the forests in Southeast Asia.

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What qualities do you insist every Chantecaille product has in terms of touch, feel, ingredients and aroma?Product feel and texture is one of my specialties. They always have to feel very good on your fingers and on your face. Since we don't use artificial fragrance, our ingredients must smell good naturally. The main reason companies use fragrance in their products is because the raw materials do not smell good on their own. When you try a product, you should always try it on your neck. It's a trick I learnt a long time ago from Estée Lauder herself while working on products. You don't really feel the product on your fingers, but your neck is much more sensitive.

Sylvie Chantecaille
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What wonder ingredients do you now favour most strongly for products and why? Plant stem cells are incredibly effective, require very little of the earth's resources and yet yield a concentration of very effective ingredients. Our Bio Lifting Cream is infused with 10 million plant stem cells to plump, lift and smooth. Lifting the face isn't an easy thing to do, but accomplishing it with a cream that is suitable for most skin types is a true feat!

How is Chantecaille as a business reacting to the increase in pollution in cities, places where many from your customer base live? For years I have worried so much about the pollution I've witnessed, not just in Asia, but in Paris, Los Angeles, Mexico City and other major cities such as London. Do not underestimate the power of cleansing - cleaning pores before toxins can get in is one way of preventing the effects of pollution. Also, it's why we are launching the Anti-Pollution range, two protective products to combat pollution for the entire family.

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Chantecaille is a family business, who’s involved and what part to they play?As a mother, it is rewarding to see your children flourish and succeed with their own individual strengths and talents. It's also rewarding to see your children at work every day! At our office we’re all together, my husband, son, and daughters, all working side by side, and there is an immediate understanding between us, without even speaking. We also share the same commitment to the brand, to beauty, botanicals and conservation.

My daughter Olivia was with me when we started Chantecaille—she is our Creative Director, responsible for product development, international public relations, and our digital voice. My other daughter, Alex, is our Vice President of Sales and Promotions, overseeing our international sales teams, stores, and accounts. She is incredibly business-minded, and continues to grow brand sales. My son Philippe serves as Director of Media Production - he has always loved photography and videography, and has turned his passion into his career. My husband is in the office with us in his role as CFO, so we get to commute with each other every day! It works well for us.

Together, we work fast and efficiently. We are proudly a family business - I think it makes us more successful, and we have a lot of fun! We know each other's strengths, weaknesses, and sometimes I think we read each other’s minds.

How do the Chantecaille family use Chantecaille?Olivia uses our Nano Gold Energising Eye Serum, which has major antioxidant and soothing properties. Alexandra can’t live without Biodynamic Lifting Serum. She also always uses La Rose de Mai Cream and Face Oil, and at night she uses the Nano Gold Eye Cream and Serum Every night I use the Flower Infused Cleansing Milk to take off my makeup before I sleep. If I’m not feeling centred, I will spritz our Pure Rosewater and breathe in. It helps relax me to sleep. My son, Philippe, always carries our Magnolia, Jasmine and Lily Healing Emulsion. He also uses Ultra Sun Protection and Stress Repair, and he’s always stealing my Biodynamic Lifting Serum! My husband, Olivier, has dry skin, so uses the Rice and Geranium Foaming Cleanser followed by the Nano Gold Firming Treatment.

What is your personal beauty motto?Sleep! When you can and as much as you can. Breathe, be joyful and be truly grateful for everything that comes your way. And, of course, use good skin care – mine!

How has Chantecaille evolved over the last 20 years?The biggest evolution for us was the fantastic discovery that we could use our company to support the environmental causes we were passionate about. Being more than just a brand, and using our voice for those who don’t have one has been an exciting, successful and rewarding journey.

The people who so generously live in the field with the wild animals and work tirelessly for their welfare are the ones we support. We share their stories and raise money to support them with the sales of our products . This is the greatest gift as a family to have gotten to know first-hand the animals and these extraordinary people. We are passionate about the wild.

Sylvie Chantecaille
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